Zillertal, Austrian magic wood

Tips

8 min.

For me, Zillertal is a special place for me to go climbing. Its advantage is that it offers both sport and multi-length climbing as well as bouldering. Thus, the activities can be combined easily. However, I have always been most attracted by the local granite rocks. They just invite you to put on your climbing shoes, throw yourself into climbing and bite into inventing graceful and bold moves.

Visiting the Magic Place sector requires resistance to cold water

EDGES, SLOPERS AND ALPINE ROMANCE

Sometimes I say it’s a little Magic Wood. The rocks have a soul of their own, the material is perfect to the touch, the granite makes beautiful ledges and slopers and the fact that you are climbing either in a fragrant mountain forest full of bilberries or in grassy meadows with alpine scenery adds to the overall atmosphere. It’s great. In the heat you can hide into the woods, to the rocks by the stream that flows directly from the glaciers, where you can find good climbing conditions. Or you can stretch out in a sunny meadow and have a rest.

The rocks have a soul of their own, the material is perfect to the touch, the granite makes beautiful ledges and slopers.

Hanging out in the sector, with highballs of the Silberross rock in the background

A CAMPFIRE BY THE MOONWALK

Probably the biggest bouldering sector is Ginzling Wald, where everyone can choose boulders in their difficulty level. The boulders are relatively close together and are a short walk from the parking lot. As a reward, everyone should check out the Sundergrundsector, which is a little further away, but the climbing in a meadow with a view of grazing farm animals makes up for it. Here, among other things, is probably one of the most famous boulders in the Zillertal, Moonwalk 7A+, but unfortunately, a few holds fell off as a result of a fire someone started there years ago.

HOW TO FIND YOUR WAY AROUND

Zillertal is located east of Innsbruck, near the town of Mayrhofen The area is split into two valleys, with one-way tunnels leading into them, so down in the town, you must decide which valley you want to visit.

There’s a greater choice of climbing options in the valley of the village of Ginzling, where you can buy a nice guidebookat the local information desk that will take you through all the climbing disciplines mentioned (boulders, rocks, multi-lengths), so there’s plenty to choose from. You can sleep in the parking lot in the Ewige Jagdgründe sector, or in any Gasthaus, otherwise most roads are private and it’s often hard to find a place to park. There is also a climbing shop in the town, where you can buy climbing shoes or chalk if needed.

The advantage is that Zillertal is not that far away, it offers an alpine environment and a variety of climbing possibilities including hiking and trips.

A decent stretching in the Spiagltuxa 6A boulder

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Locality

Austria, Tirol, Zillertal Alps

Maps and guidebooks

The latest printed guide ZILLERTAL – KLETTERN UND BOULDERN is from 2018. It can be ordered from here, for example.

Vláďa in Soon Forgotten 6B

WHEN TO SET OUT?

The area is climbable in spring and autumn, but due to its higher altitude, there might be suitable conditions also in the summer months.

WHERE TO STAY OVERNIGHT?

You can arrange accommodation in any of the countless Gasthauses. Prices in Ginzling, for example, are around 2,000 CZK/day, just check Booking.com or try Airbnb.com. Or you can find a spot by the road and sleep in your car or a few steps away from your car, however, finding a nice spot to camp is becoming more and more difficult.

ARRIVAL AND PARKING

There are many areas to go in Zillertal. The parking locations for each area are plotted on the maps you can find in the above guide, which is very practical.

Our climbing-camping crew (from the left: Luky, Vláďa, Janča, Kristý and Cejpy)

DIFFICULTY

In Zillertal, climbing is possible in all difficulty levels. There is something for both beginners and advanced climbers.

WEATHER FORECAST

Try for example Meteoblue or the Alpenverein.

WHAT NOT TO MISS

Don’t miss a visit to the Sundergrundbouldering sector, which offers beautiful rocks in alpine meadows. On a rest day, you can take a trip to the Schlegeis glacial dam.

Easier pieces in the Sundergrund sector

VIEW PHOTOGALLERY FROM ZILLERTAL

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