Vojta Trojan in Action Directe 9a

News

29. 06. 23

Most of you know Vojta Trojan as one of the strongest Czech climbers. He has moved from climbing competitions to hard projects all over Europe and he has a good collection of climbs above 8c. At the end of last year he embarked on his first sharp attempts at the world famous Action Directe 9a route in Frankenjura and managed to climb the route this spring.

Have a look at a short documentary about this epic climb on the popular climbing channel Epic TV. You can enjoy not only the beautiful climbing footage, but also the entire commented climb, including the steps Vojta took in his own way and differently than what is "normal" in the route.

FRANKENJURA AS A HOME PLAYGROUND

Vojta takes Jura as his home turf - after all, it takes three hours to get there from Prague, and there is a multitude of beautiful trails to choose from. Action Directe is not the most difficult route in the area, but it is certainly the most famous.

Action Directe je krátká cesta v ostrém převisu
Action Directe is short, but radically overhang

This 15-metre long route in a sharp overhang with very few holds was first climbed by the famous German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and became the first 9a route in the world at the time. The techniques Wolfgang used in training on Action popularized the now common campus board and subsequently raised the level of sport climbing worldwide. Wolfgang chose the name after a far-left militant group because the route fundamentally terrorizes the fingers of any climber who tries it.

Cesta Action Directe, ve které se dvouprstová dírka počítá jako luxusní chyt, svoji obtížnost netají
Route where two finger pocket counts as a great hold shows the difficulty on the first sight

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