Jan Magnus Novák
developer of hard boulder problems and first ascensionist of sandstone towers
ABOUT MAGNUS
I come from a region that's not exactly known for climbing. I was born and raised in Kutná Hora, and it was my father who introduced me to the sport. Luckily, even there we had a few small crags, so I was able to get started.
I've been climbing since I was fourteen—damn, that's sixteen years already... I've tried a lot of different sports, but in the end I realized that only one of them could truly become my main focus. My biggest achievement isn't a single ascent, but the fact that even after all these years, I keep improving little by little and continue to push my climbing to the next level.
SHOOT A QUESTION
- Warm up or warming up by climbing? I usually warm up with two V3 (6A) boulders and one V6 (7A).
- Coffee or matcha? Definitely matcha.
- Climb in silence or with music? I prefer the peace and quiet of nature.
- Pull ups or hanging? I haven't done either for a long time, but I always preferred pull-ups.
- Favourite snack in the crags? Definitely dried mango.
- Lead or boulder? Sandstone bouldering.
- Alone or with a group? Usually alone, or with my partner Baruš.
- Static or dyno? Static. I'm terrible at dynos.
5 QUESTIONS FOR MAGNUS
1. What's your biggest f**k up in your climbing life?
While trying Holoubek in Teplice, the heel loop of my climbing shoe somehow clipped itself into the quickdraw. I couldn't figure out how it happened, and I couldn't keep climbing.
2. If you could pick anyone from the climbing history or the present climbers, who would you love to go climb with and why?
Jirka Šrůtek comes to mind. I'd love to try and finish one of his projects with him. His determination and motivation are something I really admire.
3. What is your dream line?
My goal has been to climb an 8C boulder — not after countless sessions, but ideally within three days of trying it. We'll see if I can still reach that level. Back home in Adršpach, it would probably be Problém by Tomajda - RP maybe XIIIb.
4. What's your favourite part of being in the Rafiki team?
I'm truly grateful for the support and approach I've experienced in the team. I really appreciate it. Thanks to Rafiki, everything around climbing has become a little easier and more enjoyable for me. I care about quality, sustainability and natural materials, not only in the food I eat, but also in what I wear every day. That's why I love being able to climb and live in clothes made from organic cotton or linen that Rafiki creates.
5. What's your advice for the climbers of all levels?
Don't rush. Learn how to climb properly. Build a solid base by climbing a lot, and learn how to behave respectfully in nature — you're not climbing on plastic anymore.
