8C BOULDERER FROM BELGIUM, ROUTESETTER, TRAINING ENTHUSIAST, FILMMAKER
8c climber from Belgium
Very skilled boulderer, in love with Fontainebleau
Currently renovating first bouldering gym in Belgium
1. If you could only go to one area, what would it be?
I would die in Fontainebleau if I could ;)
2. Which route "punished" you the most and which one was so good that it surprised you?
Ill Trill 8B+ in magic wood punished me the most. It has very nice athletic moves but the rock and the boulder itself are not very beautiful (in my opinion) and I had a lot of trouble with the heelhooks. So I projected a boulder that I hated for 5 days. It was hard to stay motivated and hike up there every day again.
The boulder that surprised me most was my 1 session ascent of Ninja Skills 8B+ in Sobrio (Switzerland ). The hike was horrible and it was super cold in the shade. I just wanted to feel the moves a bit because it was our last day there but it got better and better and I could give good tries from the start. That one is still my biggest fight to date!
3. What OS do you value the most?
I flashed an 8A+ called Rombuk in Silvretta (Austria) in 2019 with a beautiful rose move in the middle of a big overhang. That was probably my best flash-feeling (together with the flash of second life 8A+ in Chironico).
4. Do you have a precise training plan, or do you stick to the motto "the best climbing training is climbing”?
The best training is definitely climbing for me. I try to add some campus board and one arm hangs and one arm pull-ups if I can.
5. What about your diet, rest, and compensatory exercise?
What has worked well for you personally? I don’t have a diet and I rest when I’m not climbing (haha) I climb 4-5 times in the week. In the past I did some running as well but I need to find some nice new places to explore.
6. Would you eventually like to try other climbing disciplines that you haven't tried much yet (races, multi-pitch climbing, winter mountains, etc.)?
Multi-pitch climbing looks so nice but for the moment I do not know the techniques (I can barely rope climb ;) but it must be really nice to be so high with nice exposure and enjoy some “easy” climbing.
Rob Denayer climbing Lazarus 8B, Fontainebleau.