Nuria Pilanera

Nuria Pilanera

SUCCESSFUL SPANISH CLIMBER, 100 X 8A AND HIGHER

In just 7 years she has climbed over 100 routes of 8a grade and higher

Her most difficult RP is 8b+

She fell for building “castells” (human towers), which are shown at street festivals in Catalonia

She loves Siurana, Margalef, Oliana, Rodellar or Santa Linya

SHOOT A QUESTION

  • I was born: in Sant Cugat del Vallès (near Barcelona)
  • I’ve been climbing since: I've been climbing for 8 years
  • I have climbed on rocks: 8c I have been climbing in Catalonia (Siurana, Montserrat, Oliana, Margalef, Montsant, Santa Linya, Montrgony... and a thousand other places!) Also in Spain (Rodellar, Bielsa...), France (Céüse, Briançon, Le Tarn...), Greece (Kalimnos), Morocco...
  • I have climbed on boulders: by Albarrcin and boulder areas near home (Arbolí, El Cogul...). This year we want to do a little more bouldering!
  • With a mattress or with a rope? I like the rope better, the feeling of height! But I also think that bouldering is very necessary to gain strength.
  • Good conditions in winter or good time in summer? If I am very fanatic, I prefer cold and low temperatures to be able to push a lot! The small crimps need a good feel!
  • In the valley or in the mountains? Both! We have a rock climbing wall at home (with moonboard, campus, trx...) where we train every day, so we can get to the rock stronger!
  • Alone or in a group? Always in a group, we are very sociable! We love to climb with friends, and at the end, to have a cold beer and share experiences!
  • Edge or sloper? Everything! I climb all kinds of routes, I am very versatile! It's true that the semi-plummeted slabs with small crimps is what I'm best at.
  • Static or dynamic? If I can do it static, all the better! If not, I jump and go dynamics!
  • Practice or OS? Both, and simultaneously! I always like to have a project where I'm progressing, but combining it with sight climbing that gives you a lot of resources, and makes you climb very precise!
  • Flannel shirt or T-shirt?  T-shirt

6 QUESTIONS FOR NURIA

1. If you could only go to one area, what would it be?
How difficult! In summer I would definitely go to Céüse, it's my favorite place! Very demanding and beautiful routes and the place is spectacular! In winter I would stay at home, near Siurana and Montserrat!

2. Which route "punished" you the most and which one was so good that it surprised you?
The route that cost me the most, especially mentally, was my first 8c, "Mind Control" in Oliana. Not because it was my first 8c, but because it is a very long and demanding route, where the hardest crux is at the top, before the chain is clipped, when you've been climbing for more than 45 meters. I had to manage the psychological part very well in order to be able to chain calmly!

On the other hand, my second 8c, "Snuff Movies" in Sant Llorenç (La Sibèria), I enjoyed it very much! It is a 20 meter route, very fast to climb, and without any pause! I had a great time trying it, and it came out very fast!

3. What OS do you value the most?
Probably my first 8a in sight, "Hard Crit" in Margalef. It is a very fun route to climb, where at the top there is a very big gap, and the truth is that I had to fight not to lose my nerves!

4. Do you have a precise training plan, or do you stick to the motto "the best climbing training is climbing"?
I have a personal trainer who designs my daily and weekly workouts. I train from Monday to Friday every day: in the mornings fitness sessions, and in the afternoons bulder sessions. Fridays is my "rest" day but I go swimming and do stretching.

And on weekends I go climbing to the max! And if I can get away during the week, we change the bulder training to rock climbing!

5. What about your diet, rest, and compensatory exercise? What has worked well for you personally?
The truth is that I don't follow a specific diet, but I do try to eat everything and in a healthy way.

Resting is more difficult for me! I am a very dynamic and nervous person, and I always need to do something! But it is true that it is necessary to rest to get results.

And as for compensatory exercises, yes it is a daily work we do, especially to avoid possible injuries!

6. Would you eventually like to try other climbing disciplines that you haven't tried much yet (races, multi-pitch climbing, winter mountains, etc.)?
Yes, I'm looking forward to doing multi-picth again!

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