CLIMBER AND CLIMBING COACH
A versatile climber and climbing coach at the same time
Former Slovenian representative in sport climbing
Junior World Champion
Two-time winner of the Winter Army World Games in difficulty climbing
1. If you could only go to one area, what would it be?
South Europe. I can’t be too long in only one place, usually I ran out of routes fast. Also, it is important to change style of climbing to prevent injuries due to repeating the same moves.
2. Which route "punished" you the most and which one was so good that it surprised you?
Karizma (Mišja Peč) 8b+. Was supposed to be easy, but took me 3 years instead of 3 tries. I still think it’s more 9a, but others say it’s closer to 8b.
3. What OS do you value the most?
Siempre se puede hacer menos. An amazing route in Chullila, super cool vertical 70 meters of fun on tiny crimps. I did the first ascent and they told me that it might be 9a. I said 8c+, but later they found easier exit and downgraded it to 8c.
Just climbing and listening to my body.
4. Do you have a precise training plan, or do you stick to the motto "the best climbing training is climbing"?
No plan. I climb as much as I can. I always look for my weaknesses and start working on fixing them. Never ending process, but the more I climb, the better I get. Strict programs never worked on me.
5. What about your diet, rest, and compensatory exercise? What has worked well for you personally?
Just climbing and listening to my body. I’m quite good at that. I think. Diet I never thought about it, but have to be careful that I don’t lose too much weight when I climb more. It’s easy for me to forget about food when I’m on the wall. Rest... Just an easy day usually works as well. Exercises I do all the time. Stretching, pull-ups, some balance stuff, lifting the bottle, holding some random pinches, working out with shopping bag, squeezing the steering wheel when driving, breathing exercises... I do all that by the way in my normal time. Never take specific time to do it, just if opportunity comes to do some pull-ups for example I will do them (like on the bus that takes you to the plane. No idea why other humans look weird at me when I’m doing that)
6. Would you eventually like to try other climbing disciplines that you haven't tried much yet (races, multi-pitch climbing, winter mountains, etc.)?
I still have to master crack climbing. Hopefully there will be time to do that soon. All the rest I already do. Except soloing. I’m against that. Don’t like it and I think it is bad for our sport when someone promotes it and say how cool it is. It’s not.