Jan Novotný

Jan Novotný


Founder and main climbing coach of Rockbusters

8b+ climber

Climbing, mountain and snowsports enthusiast


  • I was born in:  Ústi nad Labem, Czech Republic in 1978
  • I’ve been climbing since:  1996
  • I have climbed on rocks:  8b/+
  • I have climbed on boulders: 7C
  • With a mattress or with a rope? Both
  • Good conditions in winter or good time in summer? Good conditions.
  • In the valley or in the mountains? Both
  • Alone or in a group? Small group
  • Edge or sloper? Tufa
  • Static or dynamic? Dynamic
  • Practice or OS? All
  • Flannel shirt or T-shirt? T-shit


1. If you could only go to one area, what would it be?
Rodellar, but I would cry missing all the others ;)

2. Which route "punished" you the most and which one was so good that it surprised you?
Oh, I like to be punished so I would say almost all the hard routes kicked my ass. That is actually the most fun on climbing, choosing something close to impossible and trying to nail it down.

3. What OS do you value the most?
The next one that will come.

The most fun on climbing, choosing something close to impossible and trying to nail it down.
Jan Novotný

1. Do you have a precise training plan, or do you stick to the motto "the best climbing training is climbing"?
So far I have been just climbing and doing intuitive maintanance of power during the ski seasons.

2. What about your diet, rest, and compensatory exercise? What has worked well for you personally?
I would say I am a pretty natural guy, I do things depending on my feelings, eating what I feel like eating, resting my fingers when I ski and resting my legs when I climb ;)

3. Would you eventually like to try other climbing disciplines that you haven't tried much yet (races, multi-pitch climbing, winter mountains, etc.)?
I can imagine adding some winter mountain climbing, but only if there is cool way down on skis ;)

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