Prudence Morgan-Wood

Prudence Morgan-Wood


Happy to climb anywhere and on anything as long as the company is good

Routesetter in her local gym


  • I was born: In Dover, England
  • I’ve been climbing since: I was 7 years old (2001).
  • I have climbed on rocks: 8b+ , 8a+ flash and 8a onsight
  • I have climbed on boulders: I don’t really boulder. (7b flash a long time ago)
  • With a mattress or with a rope? Rope
  • Good conditions in winter or good time in summer? Any day on the rock is a good day but winter conditions are the best! (Especially with global warming…)
  • In the valley or in the mountains? In the mountains
  • Alone or in a group? In a group
  • Edge or sloper? Edge
  • Static or dynamic? Dynamic because I am quite short (160cm) but I am also very good at static climbing
  • Practice or OS? On-sight is the best (I don’t practice many routes for longer than 1 or 2 weekends, if I can’t do the moves then I’ll just come back when I am stronger)
  • Flannel shirt or T-shirt? Sports bra!


1. If you could only go to one area, what would it be?
There are so many good areas it’s so hard to choose !!

2. Which route "punished" you the most and which one was so good that it surprised you?
Perdonavidas 8a in Margalef was a completely unexpected onsight and the route that punished me the most was probably Colla d’Arreplegats 8b+ because it had a hard boulder at the beginning and if I got past that I fell several times right at the very top. It was my only real project that I have had. I dedicated maybe three or four weekends to it.

3. What OS do you value the most?
I always value 8a and I would love to do 8a+ or even higher! Whenever I get on a new route, the first go is always an onsight go because you never know what can happen!

4. Do you have a precise training plan, or do you stick to the motto "the best climbing training is climbing"?
I currently work as a routesetter so that is the only “training” that I do. My partner David and I climb all and every weekend and during the week if we have time we might go and play around a bit in a gym. 

5. What about your diet, rest, and compensatory exercise?
What has worked well for you personally? Not pushing myself too hard. Knowing when to stop because I’m tired and as for my diet I eat whatever I want, there is always a pack of sweets in my bag !

6. Would you eventually like to try other climbing disciplines that you haven't tried much yet (races, multi-pitch climbing, winter mountains, etc.)?
 would like to do more multi-pitch climbing, I have done a bit but never very hard routes. I would like to see how far I can go in this particular discipline.

I also used to do a lot of competition climbing ( I was 2nd in the Spanish bouldering championships ) and I would like to return to a few fun competitions or deep water solo competitions - they look like a blast!

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