Josu “Txuso” Rubio

Josu “Txuso” Rubio


7c+ climber from Barcelona, Spain

He spends most of his free time on rocks in Montserrat and all around Spain and Europe

Promoter of banana pancakes and bread with peanut butter as the performance climbing diet

Enthusiast of the harsh conditions, who is always in a good mood

Rock climbing filmer


  • I was born: in Getxo, Basque Country
  • I’ve been climbing since: I fell in love with climbing in April 2018.
  • I have climbed on rocks: 7c+
  • I have climbed on boulders: 7b
  • With a mattress or with a rope? I used to love mattresses, they made me feel comfortable… but then I realised that my real motivation lies within the rope spirit.
  • Good conditions in winter or a good time in summer? Summer and hot weather are my enemies. I hate climbing when I’m almost melting. I’d prefer good conditions in winter.
  • In the valley or in the mountains? In the valley
  • Alone or in a group? Sharing is caring so always in group.
  • Edge or sloper? Please, Just give me rocks I will figure out how to manage them somehow.
  • Static or dynamic? Static and dynamic as the last resource
  • Practice or OS? I try to have a balance between them but lately the redpoint spirit has conquered me.
  • Flannel shirt or T-shirt? T-shirt or t-shirt less


1. If you could only go to one area, what would it be?
Maybe… Sant Llorenç del Munt, it’s not the style that suits me the best but it has something that makes me feel in love…

2. Which route "punished" you the most and which one was so good that it surprised you?
Thai Dream 7c+, I almost sent the route on my 3rd try… however, my nerves and my pressure management didn’t help and I had to try on and on. About a good one that surprised me… L’antiga 7b+ in Montserrat I sent it second go when it was raining and I couldn’t almost use the holds as they were wet, I pulled into the survivor mode and just sent it (still cannot believe it)

3. What OS do you value the most?
My first 7b+ leading. I honestly didn’t expect it because I climbed it like if it was my 1221332th go but actually I was climbing that piece of rocks for the first time…

4. Do you have a precise training plan, or do you stick to the motto "the best climbing training is climbing"?
I follow a training routine set by my climbing coach.

5. What about your diet, rest, and compensatory exercise? What has worked well for you personally?
I realised that my climbing performance improved since I eat after every try: bread with peanut butter, banana, pancakes…

6. Would you eventually like to try other climbing disciplines that you haven't tried much yet (races, multi-pitch climbing, winter mountains, etc.)?
Perhaps… multi-pitch climbing but just perhaps.

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