Lucie Vojáčková

Lucie Vojáčková

7C CLIMBER, MEMBER OF THE CZECH REPUBLIC CLIMBING TEAM IN BOTH LEAD CLIMBING AND BOULDERING CATEGORY U16

In 2023 she successfully qualified for the Czech national team in lead climbing and bouldering category U16

8th place at the European Youth Cup, Soure (POR), cat. U16, bouldering

4th place at the Czech National Championships, cat. U15, lead

1st place in the overall Czech Cup 2021, cat. U14, lead climbing

SHOOT A QUESTION

  • I was born in: 2008
  • I've been climbing since: 2018
  • On the rocks, I have climbed: 7a
  • On the wall, I have climbed: 7c (OS)
  • On boulders, I have climbed: 7b
  • With a bouldering mat or a rope? With a rope
  • Good conditions in winter or good time in summer? Both
  • In a valley or in the mountains? In a valley
  • Alone or in a group? Rather in a group
  • Edge or sloper? Edge
  • Static or dynamic? Rather dynamic
  • Practice or OS? Both
  • Flannel shirt or T-shirt? T-shirt

6 QUESTIONS FOR LUCKA

1. If you could only go to one area, what would it be?
Frankenjura

2. Which route "punished" you the most and which one was so good that it surprised you?
The route that I didn't enjoy was probably a 7c in Kobyla. I spent there quite a long time on a traverse which I didn't finish after all. On the contrary, a 7c on the wall that turned out to be a perfect on-sight climb and didn't give me any trouble. 

3. What OS do you value the most?
Probably a 9- that I eventually made but it was really close.

I try to train a lot on different walls and choose routes where I know I have room for improvement.
Lucie Vojáčková

4. Do you have a precise training plan, or do you stick to the motto "the best climbing training is climbing"?
I follow a training plan from my trainer Helena Lipenská, or we can adjust something according to the current situation. I try to train a lot on different walls and choose routes where I know I have room for improvement.

5. What about your diet, rest, and compensatory exercise? What has worked well for you personally?
Of course, I try to eat as well as possible. I have breaks between workouts, which I sometimes fill with a recovery jogging, or I take my dog for a walk. After a workout, I often take a whirlpool bath, or I apply ice gel on my forearms and back.

6. Would you eventually like to try other climbing disciplines that you haven't tried much yet (races, multi-pitch climbing, winter mountains, etc.)?
I've been climbing for quite a short time, so I've only done competitive climbing and rock climbing before, which I would definitely like to do more in the future. I'd also be interested in multi-pitch climbing, and maybe some mountain hiking at some point.

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