Dana Ivanovová

Dana Ivanovová

TALENTED SLOVAK CLIMBER, PHOTOGRAPHER, SKI MOUNTAINEER

She loves the Tatras and spends a lot of time on the home wall of K2 in Bratislava

She likes to discover new climbing areas

She loves all mountain sports, besides climbing she is also an excellent ski mountaineer

SHOOT A QUESTION

  • I was born in: 1989
  • I’ve been climbing since: 2017
  • I have climbed on rocks: 7B+ OS
  • I have climbed on boulders: -
  • With a mattress or with a rope?  Definitely rope 
  • Good conditions in winter or good time in summer? Good conditions with a good equipment 
  • In the valley or in the mountains? Mountains 
  • Alone or in a group? In a group of two :)
  • Edge or sloper? Tufas 
  • Static or dynamic? Dynamic
  • Practice or OS? definitely OS (but I can also try really hard when it's time).
  • Flannel shirt or T-shirt? Rafiki top :)

6 QUESTIONS FOR DANA

1. If you could only go to one area, what would it be?
Big enough to last me for the rest of my life and full of tuffas enough to keep me entertained until then :). The Peloponnese would suit me well.

2. Which route "punished" you the most and which one was so good that it surprised you?
Chipotle (7c) in the Twin Caves sector destroyed me last time. I didn't want to give up and sent out three attempts literally in "blood and sweat" to leave Leonidio with an easy heart.

On the other hand, I surprisingly "walked through" the Mundello (7b)  OS route in the Spanish El Queso sector on the first day of this year's rock season.

3. What OS do you value the most?
Two years ago climbing a very specific, magnificent Tatra multi-pitch CARPE DIEM VIII- on Ostrv. It was also our first Tatra team OS with Peter and it was also our first trip to the High Tatras together. Multi-pitch routes have their own special charm - when climbed in a pair further enhanced by shared emotions.

4. Do you have a precise training plan, or do you stick to the motto "the best climbing training is climbing"?
My coach and friend in one occupies all my free time since we met. We also create our training plan together as trained coaches and try to match each other in this part of our lives as well. Precise plan is a strong word though, as the key in any sport is to have some individual sense of self-perception and then be able to dynamically change the plan based on your current physical condition.

5. What about your diet, rest, and compensatory exercise? What has worked well for you personally?
Compensation and recovery have "haunted" me throughout my rich life as a professional athlete. It has certainly worked well for me to spend equal parts of my time on compensatory exercises and recovery in proportion to the time of the main part of the training unit itself. Conversely, inconsistency in this regard has punished me. Especially with age and experience, this strikes me as inevitable.

I emphasize quality in my diet, eat plenty of vegetables and try to limit meat. I consume sweets on a limited basis and follow my regime more strictly in intensive training.

6. Would you eventually like to try other climbing disciplines that you haven't tried much yet (races, multi-pitch climbing, winter mountains, etc.)?
In my case, I actually started climbing very unconventionally - in reverse order. My beginnings were connected with ice climbing and with the first races, which we won in our category. The winter mountains became my temporary home and in the summer I only climbed traditional routes. I also managed some interesting solo performances on the Tatra ridges and in the Alps.

However, for the last two years I have been sport climbing and enjoy exploring my limits and physical limits.

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